Saint Laurent Men’s RTW Fall 2023 - WWD

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On Monday nighttime successful Paris, Anthony Vaccarello seduced with achromatic satin, grain de poudre, leather and chiffon blouses — and what could beryllium much Saint Laurent than that?

Leaving rock-tinged and bohemian-flavored looks successful the dust, the decorator is settling into a caller soigné groove astatine the location that Yves built — and it looks tremendously chic.

While the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce, billionaire François Pinault’s modern creation museum, was teeming connected Monday nighttime with TV and movie heartthrobs successful see-through oregon plunging shirts and pants choky connected the hips, they’re not Vaccarello’s muses:.He was channeling the legendary couturier himself and his dandy fellow Jacques de Bascher successful their glory days: hairsbreadth slicked back, eyes shielded by acheronian glasses, bodies arsenic slender arsenic an opening parenthesis and dressed to the nines.

The lightbulb that went disconnected successful Vaccarello’s caput precocious is that what’s bully for the goose tin beryllium arsenic bully for the gander: Editors who attended Saint Laurent’s terrific outpouring 2023 womenswear amusement volition admit the aforesaid floor-sweeping, broad-shoulder coats, present shown implicit turtleneck sweaters that agelong from naval to calf successful lieu of conduit dresses, and silky pants.

“It was inspired by those years astatine Yves Saint Laurent erstwhile everything started from the shoulder,” Vaccarello explained backstage. “I truly privation to support that line.”

He besides reprised the hooded silhouettes, too, though astir men would support these disconnected their head.

But for a fewer items — a achromatic garment with a melodramatic cervix bow here, a swingy camel topcoat determination — astir of the postulation was black: belted coats arsenic glossy arsenic caller tar; knitted tunics and tops elegantly draped and wrapped, and tuxedo jackets and pants to fume each others. These were apparel with grandeur and presence.

Backstage, Vaccarello said helium studied immoderate of the founder’s last couture collections successful the precocious ’90s and aboriginal Aughts, and applied the aforesaid meticulous details to the menswear, pointing to the delicate stitching astir the collars of the chiffon tops, “done the atelier way.”

The amusement marked a instrumentality for Saint Laurent to the Paris runway. In caller years, Vaccarello took men’s collections for Saint Laurent connected the roadworthy — to Marrakech, Jersey City, N.J., Venice, Italy, and Malibu, California.

He said the program going guardant is to proceed showing successful Paris each January and question erstwhile a year. “A surprise,” helium teased.