PARIS (AFP) – The manner juggernaut returns to Paris this week, with Saint Laurent rejoining the line-up and menswear connected a blistery streak, adjacent if the manufacture remains wary of economical headwinds.
The changing satellite of menswear is evident connected reddish carpets astir the world, wherever the likes of Timothee Chalamet and Harry Styles person helped redefine antheral style, ditching monochrome tuxedos successful favour of daring outfits and agleam colours.
Just past week, Vogue declared that “the nighttime belonged to menswear” astatine the Golden Globes, and stores person been reporting unprecedented maturation successful the assemblage for months.
So the buzz is deafening astir the menswear shows hitting Paris from today, boosted by the instrumentality of 2 large hitters successful Saint Laurent connected today’s opening night, and John Galliano’s Maison Margiela closing the week adjacent Sunday.
Saint Laurent has not presented a men’s amusement successful the authoritative calendar since Belgian decorator Anthony Vaccarello took the reins successful 2016, preferring one-off appearances successful exotic locations specified arsenic Marrakesh and Venice.
In Milan past week – wherever manner shows person not adjacent finished arsenic the manufacture caravan decamps for Paris – the speech was each astir who would win flamboyant originative manager Alessandro Michele astatine Gucci pursuing his caller astonishment departure. In Paris, the large unanswered question is who volition instrumentality implicit astatine Louis Vuitton pursuing the aboriginal decease of Virgil Abloh successful November 2021.
The statement got fashionista tongues wagging erstwhile it announced that Thursday’s amusement is being handled by wunderkind Colm Dillane, the antheral down blistery young Brooklyn statement KidSuper – on with an accompanying movie changeable by French manager Michel Gondry.
While galore are disquieted astir the interaction of imaginable recessions, tightening biology regulations and inflationary costs, menswear is seen arsenic a agleam spot.
“Saint Laurent, Gucci and Givenchy are moving astir amended successful men’s than women’s astatine the moment,” said Director of Buying for Paris section store Galeries Lafayette Alice Feillard.
“We’ve been seeing this exponential maturation for 2 oregon 3 years… It’s truly taking off,” she added.
Even men’s undies are gaining crushed connected the pistillate market.
Male underwear was up 3.3 per cent successful the archetypal 10 months of 2022 to EUR400 cardinal (USD435 million), against 2.5 per cent maturation successful women’s lingerie (to a inactive ascendant EUR1.5 million), according to figures from the Salon International de la Lingerie, which is held successful Paris this month.
“Menswear has greatly evolved successful caller years,” said luxury adept Serge Carreira of Sciences Po university.
“It has created a large caller tract of expression, innovation and probe for the houses.”